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[REV 2 11]

Hi guys...man it has been a while...

A few years ago, I started thinking about building my version of the perfect track car.

I had decided that the engine of choice would be a high-revving normally aspirated 20v. Because I was planning to use a small displacement N/A engine, the car had to be lightweight, around the 1-ton mark. My original intent was to put this engine into my AE92 Corolla. But I soon wised-up to the fact the the ideal layout for a track car is an MR configuration, and not a FF or FR or even a RR configuration.
Another thing I considered was the vehicles parts availability, both OEM and aftermarket.

So it was sometime earlier this year, that the hunt for an original condition MR2 Hardtop began...
My colour of choice was red, and needless to say, finding a Red MR2 with a Hardtop is not the fastest process. But my patience was to be well rewarded.

After searching for what seemed like eternity, I finally found a Spyder that was still in excellent condition overall and 99% original - the only part of the car that was not original was the tail piece.

I took delivery of her a little under 2 months ago, on the 1st of July.















Since then, I've had the miserable OEM HU replaced with a 1DIN Clarion DXZ785USB, and the speakers upgraded to JL Audio TR 650CSi splits.

The next thing that I plan to do - hopefully this weekend - is remove the precats, strictly as a preventative measure.
I doubt I'll go any further than that for now with any engine mods...for two reasons: I am still learning the car's characteristics, and I'm waiting to bring in the last few parts for the 20v build - the rods, gasket, and valves

Some of the parts being used for the 20v Engine build:
- TODA Camshafts, Cam gears, Valve Springs, Cambelt
- Supertech Valves, Titanium Retainers
- ARP Main studs, Custom Head studs, Flywheel bolts
- Wiseco custom spec High-comp pistons
- Carrillo custom spec conrods

So far as I know, there is no other Mk3 MR2 that has done a 4A-GE swap...16v or 20v!
Most people would rather go the 2ZZ route, but to be quite honest, I'm not a fan of the ZZ series engines, and I believe the 20v has more potential in this chassis.
As for the engine weight difference between the ZZ and the 20v, well my cast iron 20v engine will actually weigh almost the same if not less than the aluminium ZZ engines.

More pics to follow...

Comments and criticism welcome


Pics added (22/09/2011)
The TODA head setup:


The stamp of approval...


The ARP Goodies - Main studs, Flywheel bolts, and custom head studs:


Custom Wiseco pistons...with enough clearance for just about any valve situation:

[160Ti]

Nice ther DUB !! keep us posted as you Go..

O btw.. you can get a lsd G/Box for mr2 but must be import.

Cabby looks awesome

[Trdcrazy]

Brilliant cant wait to see the finished project,goodluck

[20v_Monster_ZN]

bru if you dont mind telling me? what size toda cams are u gona be using? pm if u dont wana post it

[20v 2 NV]

very nice , how much does the MR2 weigh?

[JoeX]

Congrats, The car still looks nice and neat. I also have a track project... I was also thinking off a 20v motor but was turned down by who race with them.. valves go mushroom from all the high rev's

I've just got my car's head back after it has been gasflow and skimmed and 268 cams been fitted... My car's weight is about 700kg after my weight reduction. I will take it on the track again on the 15th October at zwartkops.. will yours be ready?? Then we can have some fun...
Cheers

[REV 2 11]

Hey guys, thanks for the compliments.
Will upload some pics of the parts to be used later today...


@ 160Ti - Yep, will keep the updates coming. I will eventually use an LSD, but haven't decided which one to use yet though. I'll put the engine in first and see how she reacts, and decide from there.

@ Trdcrazy - thanx!

@ 20v_Monster_ZN - Sorry man, I can't let the cat outta the bag just yet. Only once the engine is in and running the way I'm expecting it to, doing the times and power I expect of it, thats when I'll disclose more definative specs of the parts used...

@ 20v 2 NV - Thanks. The Spyder weighs 992kg with the Hardtop in place. Weighs around 975kg without the Hardtop.

@ JoeX - Thanks man. Well, I would tend to agree with you, but to a certain extent - I think essentially a race engine of Formula Atlantic 16v / Group N2 20v build caliber, should be rebuilt after every race season, or 250 racing hours... but thats a rule of thumb. In any case, thats why I primarily opted for the Supertech Valves. Mind you, the Group N2 20v used the OEM valves...

I strongly feel that a 20v is a much improved 16v. And it's a more excitable engine than the 16v. But each to his own...
I maintain a great respect for the 16v engine - it's been tried and tested in countless applications, whether boosted or aspirated.

Your car must feel like a totally different car with the head and cams done! Any power figures yet?
700kgs?? That must be some serious gutting to get the weight so low on an AE92...almost 300 kgs shed! What was your car originally - a 1.3 or 1.6 or twincam?

I wish I could join you that soon...but my car's initial setup will only be ready early next year.

[Hybrid]

Congratulations buddy _ an awesome ride and project , well done !

Your patience has been duly rewarded , enjoy and keep us updated..

[160Ti]

@ DUB you must let me know,coz the box are R10 000 with import

[WGMR2]

Dude why aspirated and not turbo? Aspirated sux up here in jhb, im gna turbo my MR soon

[JoeX]

Hi

I got my car back from Dyno and is pushing 84hp on the wheels... 2.0l N/A do about 72kw on the wheels
it rev's easily upto 7500 rpm, and very quickly after 5500rpm...

[REV 2 11]

@ Hybrid: thanks buddy . You would have been one of the first to see the car...if only you were available the last time I was down.
@ 160Ti: cool bro, will let you know
@ WGMR2: Aspirated does generally have a disavantage at altitude...but it's what I love - a jap engine screaming at high RPM. Who knows though...if I do get tired of it, I'll lower the comp and boost the living daylights out of it.
@ JoeX: Is that the figure you were expecting? Figures are one thing...and how it puts it down is something else altogether.

Pics of the parts added to main post...enjoy!

[TriXsta20]

Wat did that head setup cost u?
cams vernier springs belt?

[REV 2 11]

Wat did that head setup cost u?
cams vernier springs belt?

Hey TriXsta20,
without divulging exact amounts (just yet), i will tell you the head setup its just shy of R20k.
Postage from Japan is very expensive...

[Otius]

hey man! good job! i just dont understand why one would pick a 20v over a 2zz except for price... especially when this car is actually made for 2zz

[WGMR2]

doing major mods, are you trying to create a TRD group A 20V? hence rev211? cos it goes all the way to 11000rpm?

[REV 2 11]

@ Otius - Well I prefer the way a 20v revs over a 2ZZ. Another point to note - this conversion is the first of it's kind - a 4A-GE into a ZZw30...so there's the unique aspect. And WGMR2 hit the nail on the head...

doing major mods, are you trying to create a TRD group A 20V? hence rev211? cos it goes all the way to 11000rpm?

Exactly WG...very perceptive. My build is actually loosely based on the TRD Group N2 20v - and that was a 20v ST.
The BT 20v engine i'm building will effectively weigh less, and rev up faster, and (hopefully) make more a bit more power. There is actually not one part inside this engine that will be either "standard" or OEM part, except for the crank, but that won't be standard.

Yes, thats where the "REV 2 11" came from. Honestly, I'm confident it will be capable of going past 11000rpm, but 11000rpm is where I SAFELY plan to rev to and make power to.

[superCboy]

put one of these on the shopping list then

http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/product ... lpump.html

[REV 2 11]

put one of these on the shopping list then

http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/product ... lpump.html

Hey bro, yup, its one of the parts on my "to get" list
Though I may eventually end up using a drysump...

[Otius]

@ Otius - Well I prefer the way a 20v revs over a 2ZZ. Another point to note - this conversion is the first of it's kind - a 4A-GE into a ZZw30...so there's the unique aspect. And WGMR2 hit the nail on the head...

doing major mods, are you trying to create a TRD group A 20V? hence rev211? cos it goes all the way to 11000rpm?

Exactly WG...very perceptive. My build is actually loosely based on the TRD Group N2 20v - and that was a 20v ST.
The BT 20v engine i'm building will effectively weigh less, and rev up faster, and (hopefully) make more a bit more power. There is actually not one part inside this engine that will be either "standard" or OEM part, except for the crank, but that won't be standard.

Yes, thats where the "REV 2 11" came from. Honestly, I'm confident it will be capable of going past 11000rpm, but 11000rpm is where I SAFELY plan to rev to and make power to.

is that like the formula atlantic engine? cause those were not very reliable... also then you gonna have a AGw30
also the 2zz should not be taken lightly, very few are modded to the extent you going to mod the 20v...

[WGMR2]

yep the formula atlantic is also known as the trd group A i think.'
lol learnt this from watching initial D.

dude are you going to have to rebuild this engine every 1000 some kms?

[Otius]

yep the formula atlantic is also known as the trd group A i think.'
lol learnt this from watching initial D.

dude are you going to have to rebuild this engine every 1000 some kms?

know the formula atalantics from initialD as well haha best anime ever

i think docs engine wasn't 100% reliable either...

[REV 2 11]

@ Otius - I actually see it as an upgrade from the Atlantic engine.
Let me be very honest and say that if you are building a full-on race engine, reliability is never a thought. When you push an engine to its limit, things can always go wrong.
It would actually be an AW30...lol

@WGMR2 - yebo - the Atlantic engine was the Group A - dropped into an F1/Indy car-like body in an MR configuration and drysump.
The Group N2 20v was in a gutted AE102 Corolla (we never got that one here) and was FWD with no drysump. (this worries the hell outta me, how can you rev that high with no drysump on a track??)
Both the Group A 16v and Group N2 20v revved to 11000.
Well I don't know about every 1000kms, but I plan for my engine to undergo a scheduled general inspection and rebuild if required every 250 racing hours, or a full season of racing...
The major concern for me is bearing failure destroying the engine due to inefficient oiling at the high rpm...hence my wanting to add a drysump.

Both you guys watch to many cartoons...not unlike myself, I might add...

[WGMR2]

hey i watched the initial D movie, OMG, super cool

[Otius]

hey i watched the initial D movie, OMG, super cool

the live action one?

[WGMR2]

if you mean the one with real people then yep, lol its in japanese with subtitles.

i have the disk at home in dbn somewhere

[Otius]

if you mean the one with real people then yep, lol its in japanese with subtitles.

i have the disk at home in dbn somewhere

that is average dude... the anime series is just on a whole other level

[WGMR2]

i wanted those but no idea where to get them from

[Otius]

i wanted those but no idea where to get them from

if you ask nicely

[160Ti]

@DUB

Have you order some parts yet?